Building hive bodies with a lock miter bit

[NotactJack]

So I've been wanting to build my own hive bodies using the lock miter joint. Well it seamed really easy, set fence and depth, then run boards through. Well the problem is lumber from the store is not flat. So now the joints don't  line up and I am clamping the bejeezus out of it now to square it up so to get really nice boards I need a jointer and a plainer.

[flyboy]

Pictures please.

I have one of those but never really tried it. I used Pocket holes and screws for mine worked well. I know someone who used biscuit joints.

[capt44]

I bought a box joint jig from Carl Korschgen in Columbia, Mo.
I can cut box joints in enough boards in less than 10 minutes to build 4 boxes.
I have been using this jig for sometime now.
I have built over 400 boxes with box joints.
Folks that visit are amazed at how fast and accurate this jig is.
Since I first calibrated the jig to my table saw all I do is put on the dado blades, set the jig in the table top guides and start cutting.
I can cut the box joints as fast as I can run them through the saw.
I recommend this jig to everyone wanting boxes with box joints.

[RHBee]

Pictures please.

I have no idea what your describing. I cut rabbit joints on a table saw set up with a dado blade.

Capt, for give my ignorance,  I bought some precut boxes with box joints. Do you just slather the glue on a box joint? On a rabbit it's pretty clear where the mating surfaces are. I just don't want to waste glue.

[BeeMaster2]

Pictures please.

I have no idea what your describing. I cut rabbit joints on a table saw set up with a dado blade.

Capt, for give my ignorance,  I bought some precut boxes with box joints. Do you just slather the glue on a box joint? On a rabbit it's pretty clear where the mating surfaces are. I just don't want to waste glue.

RH,
Yes but the main thing is to get it on the flat grain to flat grain. Flat grain to flat grain joints are usually stronger than the wood is.
I just started making nucs with rabbit joints. I do not even put any glue on them because it is all end grain to flat grain. White glue is very poor at gluing this type of joint. I just use good 2" deck screws. Also makes it easy to take apart if necessary.

[Joe D]

I use the rabbit joints also.  I have it next to the table saw, cut a stack of boards.  Run them thought the router and they are ready.  I ran across a sale of liquid nail glue or chalk a couple of years ago, so far it hasn't got hard.  I put a line of the glue, put the sides in a jig, and shoot it with 1 1/2" staples.  Wipe off any excess glue, leaves no gaps and won't come apart.  Also run the top of the end boards through the router for the frames to set.  Good luck with your building.




Joe

[marktrl]

Lock miter is really only good for plywood or mdf. Even planing most wood won't get it flat enough.

[NotactJack]

Yeah and then I have problems with blowouts.

[NotactJack]

Double post

[minz]

Its fun to build your own stuff.  Here is a picture of my two jigs. Second one is a piece of plywood you screw to your miter gauge, move two widths of the blade and screw it down. I added a runner so that I had extra stability.  You glue in the same width of the blade to the slot to do the increment.  It is really as fast as that to build.  I built another one when I bought another saw (out of an old table top) to get a higher fence and not have to use my miter.  I think I got my ideas from an old copy of wood magazine. 
Finger joint jig for the new (to me) table saw:
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n599/6minz/DSCF4217.jpg
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n599/6minz/DSCF4218.jpg
Old and easy finger joint jig
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n599/6minz/boxjointback.jpg
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n599/6minz/boxjigfront.jpg

[flyboy]

Box joints are definitely one place where you - must - measure and verify 6 times and cut once! LOL

[rookie2531]

Notact, that looks like a spline down the mitered edge, is that correct?

I just use the old weak butt joint. Just run the ends that hold frames down the table saw and put those boards in between the longer ones. Glue, screw and liquid nail end grain and then paint 3 coats.

For me, box joints and dovetails waste wood as 1 1/2" of board are cut into. I use joints like those for the pieces I want to look nice. I know, I know, it is weaker but for setup time and waste, not to mention the waste when using (scrap) for trial fits. Just faster, especially when it seems my to do list never ends.

[jredburn]

Most of the 12" Pine that I can buy has warped by the time I get it to the shop.  Sometimes really really cupped.  I run it through the table saw length wise and split it into two or even three rips.  I run each rip through the saw again and cut just the edges so the boards lay flat and have square edges. I flip one rip over and glue them back together.  There is still a very small amount of cup in each piece but reversing the one rip cancels  most of the problem.  A proper glued joint is stronger than the wood  and takes about an hour to cure.