painting inner cover and inside of telescoping cover

[LKBruns]

I recently watched a YouTube video that recommended painting the inner cover and the underneath of the telescoping cover.  However, I found during my first year of beekeeping that any paint on the edges of my boxes stuck together worse than the propolis.

My concern is that if I paint the edges of the inner cover and the underneath of the telescoping cover that the two will really stick together.  I crrebtly use wilt boxes - quite regularly the quilt box sticks to the roof when I try to open the hive.

In my opinion the inner cover will not be exposed to the weather so painting it might not be necessary.
Maybe I under estimate the amount of moisture in the hive.  Any recommendations?

LB

[little john]

All my hives have telescopic covers - I paint the top, sides, bottom edge, and about an inch upwards from the bottom edge of the inner wall surfaces, to protect the wood from any water which might try wicking upwards.

Inner covers (which we call 'crown boards') - I have a number which have been painted on both sides - no particular problems with them. The trick to stopping two painted surfaces from sticking to each other is to let the paint dry for an extended period of time, and then rub beeswax over the mating surfaces.

I've recently been trialling 'soft' inner covers, using thick polythene sheeting (ex polytunnel) - which works very well on it's own.  Having said that, I see no reason why polythene sheet could not be attached to the underside of an unpainted inner cover - (say) with drawing pins (thumb tacks).
LJ

[Dallasbeek]

I've been told that latex paint never completely dries, which is what I use.  That's why latex-painted surfaces (one or both surfaces, I guess) stick together.  Oil-based paint eventually dries, but continues to emit unpleasant fumes for some time after painting, so can't be used until all the fumes have dissipated.

[mikecva]

When I paint the outside of my boxes I stack the boxes one on top of the other, separated with a toothpick. This includes the excluder, inner cover and the telescoping cover (inverted). I paint the screened bottom boards separately (no reason just have always done that.)
I have not had water problems in 35 years only predictor problems.
Just my 2 cents.    -Mike   

[Dallasbeek]

When I paint the outside of my boxes I stack the boxes one on top of the other, separated with a toothpick. This includes the excluder, inner cover and the telescoping cover (inverted). I paint the screened bottom boards separately (no reason just have always done that.)
I have not had water problems in 35 years only predictor problems.
Just my 2 cents.    -Mike

With inflation over the 35 years, that may be worth more than two cents today.   

[little john]

Oil-based paint eventually dries, but continues to emit unpleasant fumes for some time after painting, so can't be used until all the fumes have dissipated.

That's what I've found too - plus oil-based paints usually require at least 24hrs between coats. Which is why I started to use industrial polyurethane floor paint a couple of years ago. On a fair day it becomes touch-dry in about 2 hours, so it's possible to get two coats on (and dry enough to handle the boxes) in just one day. It off-gasses for about 3 or 4 days, so I leave boxes for at least a week before occupation.

I did once install bees into a box which still smelled of polyurethane paint when a swarm arrived uninvited, with no suitable box to put them in - you could tell they weren't best pleased - but not miffed enough to abscond, so the fumes don't appear to be harmful.

LJ

[Acebird]

I don't paint anything inside of a hive.  The bees do that.  I do paint the bottom and top edge of the box.  Painting is usually done in the winter and the boxes don't get used until spring.  If I had to use a box right away I would rub dirt on the mating edges.