9 Frames in a 10 Frame Super

[Duffydog]

I have always used 10 frames in a 10 frame super. It was suggested that I use either 8 or 9 frames as I would get thicker honey frames and MORE honey. Does any one use less than 10 frames in their supers? Also if you use an uncapping machine do you have problems with thicker frames?

[Michael Bush]

http://www.bushfarms.com/beesfaqs.htm#framespacing

[Acebird]

Also if you use an uncapping machine do you have problems with thicker frames?

I don't own one but I think the machines are adjustable.  I know some are.

[GSF]

A key thing Michael mentioned in his website is "drawn" comb. This year I supered 7 empty frames in an 8 frame. Won't do that again. Another thing I won't do again is the spacer I put between supers with an entrance in it. Yep, they filled in the space. I'll probably drill a hole and put a cork in it this winter.

[Colobee]

I've done all three with supers. 10's often end up being shy of the uncapping knife - requiring a lot of cappings scratching. 8's are so thick that 1/4" of honey & comb goes into the cappings wax spinner and much of the honey ends up inseparably coating the wax .  9's are just about right for easy hand uncapping. At least that's what I've found.

In a ten frame box, I run 10 tightly packed bare frames, then go to 9 drawn combs.

[PhilK]

I have 10 frames in my 10 frame deep honey supers and they are really annoying to uncap with the knife, so I am thinking of going to 9s.

Is the basic rule just to only do this with already drawn comb? 9 frames of foundation will cause problems with some being drawn thicker and some thinner is that right?

[cao]

Is the basic rule just to only do this with already drawn comb? 9 frames of foundation will cause problems with some being drawn thicker and some thinner is that right?

If you put only 9 frames of foundation you will probably end up with a few frames not drawn at all and the others drawn out extra, extra wide.  I usually will start with 10 and pull one after they start filling the frames with nectar but, before they cap it.

[Duffydog]

I've done all three with supers. 10's often end up being shy of the uncapping knife - requiring a lot of cappings scratching. 8's are so thick that 1/4" of honey & comb goes into the cappings wax spinner and much of the honey ends up inseparably coating the wax .  9's are just about right for easy hand uncapping. At least that's what I've found.

In a ten frame box, I run 10 tightly packed bare frames, then go to 9 drawn combs.

When you use 9 drawn frames do you space them or push together with space on each end?
I am concerned about frames that will be very thick and not work well in my uncapping machine.

[GSF]

Duffy, I can't answer your last question because my results were all over the board. With frames that weren't drawn out several times I ran across frames where they would come off the top and draw out between the frames. I ran out of frames and forgot to replace one of the deep frames. When I pulled the inner cover off it was almost drawn out to the bottom. I said to myself, fine - I'll come back and harvest it as comb honey. They must have heard me because when I went to harvest it was full of drone brood.

[Duffydog]

The more I thought about it pushing 9 frames together in a 10 frame super makes no sense. If thicker frames are desired then should be evenly spaced. Think I answered my  own question. Quite frankly I have always used 10 frames without any problems.

I've done all three with supers. 10's often end up being shy of the uncapping knife - requiring a lot of cappings scratching. 8's are so thick that 1/4" of honey & comb goes into the cappings wax spinner and much of the honey ends up inseparably coating the wax .  9's are just about right for easy hand uncapping. At least that's what I've found.

In a ten frame box, I run 10 tightly packed bare frames, then go to 9 drawn combs.

When you use 9 drawn frames do you space them or push together with space on each end?
I am concerned about frames that will be very thick and not work well in my uncapping machine.

[Oldbeavo]

we run 8 deep frame supers, new frames that are to be drawn out are put in as 8"s.
Drawn frames can be run as 7 and the bees will draw them out quite thick. Very little scratching of uncapped areas. The theory behind more honey from 7 is that you have one less bee space that is filled with honey when compared with 8 frames. Down side is you handles more honey through your cappings system.
We use a BeeQuip (made in Australia) that handles thick frames with ease.

[Colobee]

I space 9 frames evenly, with a small gap between each. I mounted two metal 9 frame spacers on a block of 1 x 8 pine cut to the width of the box. The block has a cabinet handle mounted in the middle of the top side to make it easier to use.

9's are usually thick enough that they can be uncapped in one even slice per side with a hot knife. 10's tend to have sometimes large areas that are capped below the plane of the edge of the frame, making them more difficult to uncap with the knife. Sometimes they are OK, others not.

It's not a huge deal - just one of the little things that add up, especially if one is uncapping hundreds of frames with an aging body. One tip I also learned is to reverse the cutting direction every once in a while - easier on the wrist.

[Acebird]

Is the basic rule just to only do this with already drawn comb? 9 frames of foundation will cause problems with some being drawn thicker and some thinner is that right?

Yes, don't space the frames out until you have extracted them once.

[Colobee]

Yes - I should have said "frames of comb" - sorry for any confusion.