Honey labeling

rookie2531 · July 31, 2016, 06:36:24 PM

I was able to get 70 pounds of honey, (first time).
I had a sift screen (kind you use for deep frying) on the bucket as it poured out the extractor. There is a white film on top the honey now.
I am planing on skimming this off and pouring honey through a 400 micron mesh cloth. But after I do that, how do I label the honey?
Is it still considered 100% raw and unfiltered?

divemaster1963 · July 31, 2016, 07:11:02 PM

yes. as long as you use no heat other than the temp out side and under 120 degrees. straining is just to remove particules of wax and bees and possible wood from frames when you cut the caps off. it still has all the microscopic peaces of pollen in it. labeling as natural raw gravity strained honey. I use down to 200 micron fine strainer to do my honey. the white foam on top is just the air bubbles from straining. let it sit over night or two and just skim it off. I just drain it till I get to the film and then I pour if off into a bowl and then whip it up then put in it in jam jars as whipped honey for sale. people like it for spreads.

john

Michael Bush · August 01, 2016, 10:51:24 AM

400 microns is filtered... you already ran it through a screen, if you want unfiltered, that is enough.

deknow · August 01, 2016, 07:27:50 PM

It's raw if it sits outside on a 110 degree day, bit not raw if warmed in a 95 degree warming room?

divemaster1963 · August 01, 2016, 08:02:48 PM

Should have made it clearer. Processed honey is heated to high temp to facilitate it going thru pressure filtering to remove all traces of pollen. Thus leaving basically sugar honey romiving all beifical microscopic partials that and heating destroys beifical emzines.

John

rookie2531 · August 01, 2016, 08:04:22 PM

Well, I have time to decide how I'm going to bottle it up. I was thinking just to bottle it all up in quarts and pint jars. The post office messed up the delivery of the mesh and it's just sitting in 2 buckets with the lids on right now. I haven't skimmed it or nothing yet.
I do think it will sell better if it looks clear and have nothing floating around.
I still have yet to get labels too. Decisions, decisions. Thanks to everyone for the info and guidance. I may be asking more about bottling and labeling.

Psparr · August 01, 2016, 09:26:48 PM

Quote from: rookie2531 on August 01, 2016, 08:04:22 PM
Well, I have time to decide how I'm going to bottle it up. I was thinking just to bottle it all up in quarts and pint jars. The post office messed up the delivery of the mesh and it's just sitting in 2 buckets with the lids on right now. I haven't skimmed it or nothing yet.
I do think it will sell better if it looks clear and have nothing floating around.
I still have yet to get labels too. Decisions, decisions. Thanks to everyone for the info and guidance. I may be asking more about bottling and labeling.

5 gallon paint strainers work well from home cheapo or lowes. Just wash them first.

divemaster1963 · August 01, 2016, 09:39:57 PM

[/quote]
5 gallon paint strainers work well from home cheapo or lowes. Just wash them first.
[/quote]

Ditto on that. I use them to ruff strain my crushed comb and capings
John

rookie2531 · August 01, 2016, 10:32:44 PM

I wasn't sure about the paint strainers, as the micron, but felt I couldn't go wrong when I saw that the company beethinking had them for 5 bucks and free shipping. Couldn't beat that with a really big beat stick. Lol
It will come, post office, messed up and forwarded it to a different p.o. I called and they are shipping it back.

yes2matt · August 02, 2016, 07:20:46 AM

70 lbs on your first go-round is pretty good. Congratulations.

BeeMaster2 · August 03, 2016, 01:02:42 PM

Congratulations on your first harvest.
Sherwin Williams has those same strainers for $2. That is where I will be getting them from now on.
If you want nice clear honey, buy a gate valve and put it on the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket. Put your honey in it and leave it there for a week, keep it sealed. Then crack the lid and use the gate valve to fill your jars. The heave particles drop to the bottom and the light ones float to the top. I do skim off the wax and foam while it is settling and keep it for my family. It is better than the clear honey. By skimming, I get more jars filled with clear honey as the bucket gets empty. I also tip the bucket near the end.
Jim

Caribou · August 03, 2016, 03:10:19 PM

I got a two pack of 5 gallon paint filters for $4.28 at Lowes.

I put bee gates on the 3.5 gallon buckets I Picked up for free at the bakery department of Safeway and Fred Meyer.

GSF · August 03, 2016, 03:14:58 PM

Congrads on the harvest!

labeling as natural raw gravity strained honey I like that idea

rookie2531 · August 03, 2016, 11:03:26 PM

Thanks again to all for replying and info. I am learning alot.
I have ordered a refractometer and honey gates, bottles and labels.
I want to know what percentage water before I bottle.
I will look at the paint strainers next time I'm out. Thanks and I'll be back with more questions and pics too.

BeeMaster2 · August 03, 2016, 11:18:50 PM

"I want to know what percentage water before I bottle."
That depends on what it is going to be used for. If it is to sell for honey in a jar, make sure it is 18% or less. If it is going to be sold to a baker and will bee used within a couple of months or you will bee using rather quickly then 18.5 will bee ok. It will eventually ferment if left too long.
Jim

Acebird · August 04, 2016, 09:01:55 AM

Jim has the right idea. Make a settling tank. I have access to dishes and pots and pans thrown in the dumpster but if you go to Walmart and buy the cheapest stainless steel stock pot with lid you can install a honey gate in the side at the bottom. Use a hole saw. You want the cheapest because you want the thinnest gage metal so it will flatten and seal on the honey gate.
I strain my honey with stainless steel screens going into this stock pot, leave it overnight and then bottle right from this stock pot. My honey sells for as much as $12/lb and people buy it so it is good enough for them.

My capping honey does not get mixed with my extracted honey because I use a hot knife to uncap the frames. This honey goes to family and friends or to anyone that I am giving samples away to. It is impossible to tell the difference but I know enzymes have been destroyed.

Duffydog · August 23, 2016, 08:34:26 AM

Quote from: sawdstmakr on August 03, 2016, 11:18:50 PM
"I want to know what percentage water before I bottle."
That depends on what it is going to be used for. If it is to sell for honey in a jar, make sure it is 18% or less. If it is going to be sold to a baker and will bee used within a couple of months or you will bee using rather quickly then 18.5 will bee ok. It will eventually ferment if left too long.
Jim

Is't the standard 18.6%? That is what is recommended. I have for years used between 18-18.6 as benchmark without any problem. This year it was 18.2% measured with a digital meter and I am very comfortable. If it exceeded 18.6% I would have to dry it.