Made my swarm catcher

FlexMedia.tv · November 23, 2016, 04:32:24 PM

Last Spring I started two hives from packages and they both swarmed. One raised queen cells and seems like it will make it through the winter. The other was too weak and succumbed to wax moths. So, I copied a swarm box and made it.

I'm afraid of heights so this should be interesting...what I would like to learn is how close should I put this to my hives. There's this big tree that bees swarm to anyway every year but it's right next to my hives. I'm almost 100% sure my bees went there before they took off even after I had a super on for more room. Do you think if I hung the box with the attractant next to the bees it would encourage them to swarm? Probably couldn't hurt since they swarm no matter what I do.

BeeMaster2 · November 23, 2016, 08:40:35 PM

Flex,
That trap should do just fine. Instead if placing the trap in a tree, place a strong hook on a limb, and add a rope and pulley. This makes it so that you only get off the ground once. It makes it a lot safer. Add a string hooked to the back of the trap so that it does not swing around.
If you want to catch your own bees, place the trap a little ways away, maybe several yards/homes away. If you want to catch feral hives, place it in your yard.
A trap will not encourage bees to swarm.
Jim

FlexMedia.tv · November 24, 2016, 12:12:59 AM

That makes sense I can follow. Thanks Sawdstmakr!

Dallasbeek · November 24, 2016, 12:29:00 PM

Flex, you might want to read Honeybee Democracy by Thomas Seeley to get a handle on the whole swarm thing. Things like size of entrance, size of box and the direction the entrance is facing can have a bearing on the bees' choice of a potential place to call home. Besides, it's fascinating reading. Michael Bush says Seeley is a good speaker, too.

Joe D · November 24, 2016, 01:16:19 PM

Flex, I would put one up the tree and one close to my hives. And on getting the trap up in the tree there are several ways, one since you are afraid of heights you can put a small weight on the end of your fishing rod, throw the weight over a limb, let it down until you can tie a rope to the line and pull it over the limb, tie one end to the trap and pull it to where you want it and tie off the rope. When you have bees, swarms seem to be attracted to the area.

Good luck

Joe D

Dallasbeek · November 24, 2016, 01:31:32 PM

Flex, if you're like me it's not the height that scares you. It's falling that I don't like....particularly the sudden stop.

FlexMedia.tv · November 24, 2016, 09:08:41 PM

Quote from: Dallasbeek on November 24, 2016, 12:29:00 PM
Flex, you might want to read Honeybee Democracy by Thomas Seeley to get a handle on the whole swarm thing.

Dallasbeek,
Just read the notes. Looks like a good read. I'll check it out!
Thanks,
Art

FlexMedia.tv · November 24, 2016, 09:23:33 PM

Quote from: Joe D on November 24, 2016, 01:16:19 PMWhen you have bees, swarms seem to be attracted to the area.

Who knew, huh Joe D? There were 3 last year on this tree next to my hives. I couldn't tell if it was my bees or others. Gunna figure it out next year!

gww · November 24, 2016, 11:43:20 PM

I had some high traps in deer stands and such but the three swarms I caught were and 5 to 6 feet off the ground. I build little platforms that I screw to the tree and then set the trap on it. I have them as high as I can reach while standing on the ground. I don't claim to be a good trapper as I had 16 traps out and only caught three and had 12 out the year before and only caught zero. I did not catch any swarms in my high traps though and only write this to say it is possible to catch swarms with lower traps not that it is best. If you are placing the trap in a place where you don't want nails in a tree you could strap the platform to the tree. I screw because it is cheaper then buying a bunch of straps.
Good luck
gww

BeeMaster2 · November 25, 2016, 12:18:29 AM

I also have lots of traps high up in trees and I have caught few in some of them. I have a phone booth that i put traps on at about 7' high and I also use a stack of empty supers with the top box set with frames and those 2 locations both caught a lot of hives this past year and the year before. The stack of supers catches the largest swarms.
Jim

rwlaw · November 25, 2016, 08:41:55 AM

I'm with Jim, 6 to 10 ft seems to be the sweet spot height for swarm traps. Sure they light high in the trees, but I think it's just for scent dispersal for the scout bees. IMO place boxes in a sheltered area from the north wind and that's in an area open to the southeast to east, with the front of the box facing the same.

FlexMedia.tv · November 25, 2016, 11:54:54 PM

Quote from: sawdstmakr on November 25, 2016, 12:18:29 AM
I also have lots of traps high up in trees and I have caught few in some of them.

Jim,
I had extra wood so I made two. Maybe I will put one high and one low to start.

FlexMedia.tv · November 26, 2016, 12:08:47 AM

gww, rwlaw,
Kinda what some other folks are saying. Maybe I should build more boxes!
Thanks for the info everybody,
Art.

BeeMaster2 · November 26, 2016, 07:02:18 AM

Quote from: FlexMedia.tv on November 25, 2016, 11:54:54 PM
Quote from: sawdstmakr on November 25, 2016, 12:18:29 AM
I also have lots of traps high up in trees and I have caught few in some of them.

Jim,
I had extra wood so I made two. Maybe I will put one high and one low to start.

Let us know which ones the swarms choose. You may end up with both catching swarms.
Jim

BeeMaster2 · November 26, 2016, 07:07:07 AM

Quote from: FlexMedia.tv on November 26, 2016, 12:08:47 AM
gww, rwlaw,
Kinda what some other folks are saying. Maybe I should build more boxes!
Thanks for the info everybody,
Art.

Also try making different sizes. I have some 6 frame boxes that when placed next to a 5 frame box, tend to bee the ones bees select.
Jim

Dallasbeek · November 26, 2016, 10:42:29 AM

My recollection from reading Seeley's book is that a cavity of 40 liters was ideal. That would be about 10.5 US gallons. Wouldn't that be about the size of a 10-frame deep box?

bwallace23350 · November 26, 2016, 03:34:08 PM

Interesting stuff. I need to get around to doing something like this. I have my two hives already doing well. I plan on catching some feral swarms this year or at least that is my goal.

BeeMaster2 · November 26, 2016, 05:12:18 PM

Quote from: Dallasbeek on November 26, 2016, 10:42:29 AM
My recollection from reading Seeley's book is that a cavity of 40 liters was ideal. That would be about 10.5 US gallons. Wouldn't that be about the size of a 10-frame deep box?

Yes it is the size of a 10 frame deep.
Jim

Dallasbeek · November 26, 2016, 10:49:53 PM

Then is that not the size we should be making our swarm traps? Otherwise what use is the research?

BeeMaster2 · November 27, 2016, 08:20:47 AM

Dallas,
It depends on the size of the swarm, if the hives in your area produce large swarms then you need large traps. In reality, you will have both large and small swarms.
Last year, I had several 5 frame nucs, 2-6 frame nucs and a 50 frame stack of supers. One swarm moved into the 6 frame nuc and the next day a massive swarm moved into the 50 frame trap. The traps were no more than 40 feet apart and there was a 6 frame nuc less than 3 feet from the 50 frame trap.
This is why I say to have several sizes.
Jim