Bee Install today , any and all advice asked and appreciated.

[djgriggs]

Okay I picked up my bees today, Two Single 10-frame boxes.  Upon arriving home I let the settle for about 1.5 hours and then preceded  to transfer the bees. The two boxes were full 1 / 2 frames of honey mostly capped, noticed a lot of uncapped brood . I did not see the queen in box 1 but did in box 2.

Now keep in my I have two hives one hive is foundation while the other is foundationless.  When putting the bees / frames into there new home I followed the pattern below.,

eeehbbheee
eepbbbbpee

e=empty
h=honey/nectar
p=pollen/drone
b=brood


After all was and done I did not spend a lot of time go through the frames as I want the bees to settle for a few days or maybe at least until tomorrow.
I did notice that my smoke was a little warm. I am not sure how to make it cool " I was using pine straw".. Please advice on this..

I also notice after I had everything done " gloves suck " Hard to fell a few things  also I noticed that there a lot of dead bees , I know that some of these were my doing . Not exactly sure how many between stepping on them smashing them. I am sure that some were already dead as well.

Thanks for all of your thoughts and time.

[Van, Arkansas, USA]

A fella could not ask for better weather.  Sounds like you got a good buy on your bees with honey no less.  My dad purchased my first hive for $35.00 many a year ago, I still to this very day enjoy watching the bees.
Blessings

[Acebird]

OOPS!  Normally you would not install into two deeps.  If they came in a deep box you didn't need to do anything unless your supplier wanted his box back.  In which case they should have been installed exactly as they were in new boxes.  Although looking at what you did I don't think it will hurt.
A tool that is handy in the beginning is a frame gripper.  It won't smash any bees and it allows you to use the clumsiest gloves.

[cao]

After all was and done I did not spend a lot of time go through the frames as I want the bees to settle for a few days or maybe at least until tomorrow.

Your work is done for now.  I would let them settle for a week.  You can take this time to observe the entrance(learn whats "normal").  IMO there would be nothing gained in going into them any earlier.

I also notice after I had everything done " gloves suck " Hard to fell a few things  also I noticed that there a lot of dead bees , I know that some of these were my doing .

I have never used gloves.  I like to be able to get a good grip on the frames when I pull them out.  Sometimes it is by the fingernails.   I can't see how people can use them.  It does startle me everytime I start to grab a frame with a bee trapped between the frame and my finger, and the bee buzzes.

I did notice that my smoke was a little warm. I am not sure how to make it cool " I was using pine straw".. .

Do you have the large or small smoker?  The taller ones are easier to get good hot embers in the bottom and still have enough of a wad of pine needles on top that the smoke has to go through to cool it.  It also makes a difference in how much moisture is in the needles.  If they are very dry they burn easier and quicker.  If they are a little damp they are harder to get lit and keep lit.  On thing you could try is, after you get it lit good, pack about an inch or two of pine needles thay are a little damp on top.  Also, if you notice that is getting a little warm, hold the smoker a little farther away from the bees when you blow the smoke.

[djgriggs]

After all was and done I did not spend a lot of time go through the frames as I want the bees to settle for a few days or maybe at least until tomorrow.

Your work is done for now.  I would let them settle for a week.  You can take this time to observe the entrance(learn whats "normal").  IMO there would be nothing gained in going into them any earlier.

I also notice after I had everything done " gloves suck " Hard to fell a few things  also I noticed that there a lot of dead bees , I know that some of these were my doing .

I have never used gloves.  I like to be able to get a good grip on the frames when I pull them out.  Sometimes it is by the fingernails.   I can't see how people can use them.  It does startle me everytime I start to grab a frame with a bee trapped between the frame and my finger, and the bee buzzes.

I did notice that my smoke was a little warm. I am not sure how to make it cool " I was using pine straw".. .

Do you have the large or small smoker?  The taller ones are easier to get good hot embers in the bottom and still have enough of a wad of pine needles on top that the smoke has to go through to cool it.  It also makes a difference in how much moisture is in the needles.  If they are very dry they burn easier and quicker.  If they are a little damp they are harder to get lit and keep lit.  On thing you could try is, after you get it lit good, pack about an inch or two of pine needles thay are a little damp on top.  Also, if you notice that is getting a little warm, hold the smoker a little farther away from the bees when you blow the smoke.

I am planning to check them next weekend. I am using a large smoker and using pine straw, thinking about trying wood chips to see if it creates a colder smoke or the pellets. I knew that the smoke was warm so I kept the smoker at a distance.. Plus I need to find a smoke that does not smell as bad...

[Van, Arkansas, USA]

Stores have apple wood pellets.  A sweet smelling smoke that stimulates my taste buds.  The biggest problem is the family smells the smoke, then I have to smoke some meats.

I use a small propane tourch, with one click ignition to lite the pellets.  It?s fast and easy.

[Acebird]

Plus I need to find a smoke that does not smell as bad...

Don't use pot.  LOL
Pretty much all smoke smells bad.  Rarely have I lite a fire and not have my eyes water and choke like the devil.  Placing the smoker where is drifts across the hive and doesn't get you and you can still reach it takes years of experience.  Still working on that problem.

[BeeMaster2]

As mentioned, the trick to getting cool smoke is how you light the smoker. Never pack the smoker and then light the top. This makes a good flame thrower.
Light a small bunch of needles in the bottom, then take a thick bunch of needles and roll them in a thick wad and pack them in th smoker, slowly while puffing and slowly push them down tight with you hive tool. Then add another wax. Use your hive tool to clean up the needles sticking up and close it up.
Jim

[iddee]

Also, work the bellows hard and fast, get hot smoke.
Work the bellows slow and easy, get cool smoke.

[djgriggs]

Ok, after spending about 20 minutes watching the hives today I seen a lot of activity on Hive 1 ( foundation ) . I did not see much activity on Hive 2 ( foundation-less ) In case either Hive was struggling for food ( which I do not think Hive one is as I had seem many bees flying in with lots of pollen. I have put a half of a Pollen Patty in each right below the inner cover.. I am considering changing out the inner cover with a Vivaldi board, any thoughts on that?

I was considering Syrup but I only have one pale feeder at this time. I do have another on order but it is not due to arrive until until Monday

[moebees]

Ok, after spending about 20 minutes watching the hives today I seen a lot of activity on Hive 1 ( foundation ) . I did not see much activity on Hive 2 ( foundation-less ) In case either Hive was struggling for food ( which I do not think Hive one is as I had seem many bees flying in with lots of pollen. I have put a half of a Pollen Patty in each right below the inner cover.. I am considering changing out the inner cover with a Vivaldi board, any thoughts on that?

I was considering Syrup but I only have one pale feeder at this time. I do have another on order but it is not due to arrive until until Monday

No thoughts on Vivaldi but I wouldn't give them patties if they are bringing in fresh pollen. You just end up feeding the hive beetles.

[djgriggs]

Ok, after spending about 20 minutes watching the hives today I seen a lot of activity on Hive 1 ( foundation ) . I did not see much activity on Hive 2 ( foundation-less ) In case either Hive was struggling for food ( which I do not think Hive one is as I had seem many bees flying in with lots of pollen. I have put a half of a Pollen Patty in each right below the inner cover.. I am considering changing out the inner cover with a Vivaldi board, any thoughts on that?

I was considering Syrup but I only have one pale feeder at this time. I do have another on order but it is not due to arrive until until Monday

No thoughts on Vivaldi but I wouldn't give them patties if they are bringing in fresh pollen. You just end up feeding the hive beetles.

Am I to gain from that statement that the patties are not good to use and that it could cause SHB ?  Should I go and remove these patties ?

Thank you

[Dustymunky]

I believe Vivaldi boards are to alleviate moisture issues.  I use home made quilt boxes in the winter but remove them in spring.  Im sure a standard inner cover or hive mat will work just fine for you this time of year.  There are a ton of gadgets out there.  Most of them are probably not necessary imo.

[cao]

>Am I to gain from that statement that the patties are not good to use and that it could cause SHB ?  Should I go and remove these patties ?

They do not cause SHB but if they are not eaten soon they will attract them.  I wouldn't necessarily remove but, I would not leave them in for long.

[moebees]

Removing them is up to you.  But the bees will prefer the fresh pollen to the patties and small hive beetles will thrive on the patties. 

[iddee]

Leave them in for 3 days. However much is left then is how much they should be fed and checked each 3 days and remove the remainder.

[BeeMaster2]

The 3 days mentioned is due to the SHBs will lay their eggs in the pollen and hatch in 3 days. That is why you need to clean it out.
I recommend you not use pollen patties here in the south. I would be willing to bet your bees have plenty of natural pollen.
Jim

[djgriggs]

The 3 days mentioned is due to the SHBs will lay their eggs in the pollen and hatch in 3 days. That is why you need to clean it out.
I recommend you not use pollen patties here in the south. I would be willing to bet your bees have plenty of natural pollen.
Jim

I did not realize that the Pollen Patties were that much of a magnet. I have 1 pale feeder and then another will arrive tomorrow. .. I will stop by the store tomorrow and pick up 4 bags of sugar and make some syrup . Do you think fondant is a good source ?

Thank you once again

[cao]

>Do you think fondant is a good source ?

This time of year a light 1:1 syrup would be best way to feed.  It it closest to nectar which is what they need for raising brood.  Fondant, sugar bricks and thick syrup are best in the fall/winter for them to store.

[BeeMaster2]

DJ,
For you right now, you will probably be wasting your money. I think your flow is starting now and if it is, the bees will ignore the sugar water. Bees prefer nectar to sugar water. If there is no flow, then 1 to 1 is what you want to feed them to stimulate the queen to lay eggs and build brood levels.
Jim