MAQS and Robbing Screen?

[The15thMember]

I just had a hive abscond from varroa, and got some Mite Away Quick Strips today to treat my other hive.  (If you'd like to know the full story, see my other thread "Unsure What's Going On In This Hive".)  The MAQS instructions say that the hive's entrance should be completely open with no entrance reducers in place so there is adequate ventilation.  I have a robbing screen on this hive right now.  Since the entrance is fully open behind the robbing screen, can I leave it on for the treatment, or is a robbing screen considered to be an entrance reducer and should I remove it?   

[blackforest beekeeper]

To be honest, I don`t know if MAQS will do the job.
If You really push the limit of amount of MAQS used (I`d use more) and temps and humidity is allright, You might succeed in getting a lot of mites and the sick bees. For the latter, formic acid is very good.
Don`t know if it will save the hive. All depends on the amount of healthy bees still left.

Entrance: The important thing seems to be, does air go in and out? Your bottoms solid?

If I had decided on formic acid, I`d have used a sponge cloth and really put something on that. And repeated at least every 5 days. But this may cost the life of sound bees, including the queen.

Did You do a mite-wash so we know what we are talking about?

[BeeMaster2]

When you are putting acids in your hive, keep in mind that the acid will eat holes in any metal in the hive. If your hives are all wood, then no problem. I have screen top and bottom boards. I tested Miteaway II in one hive years ago and luckily I did because it put 2 inch holes in both the top and bottom boards.
Jim

[iddee]

To answer your question, yes, the screen can stay on. The ventilation will be enough. As far as the cautions on maqs, I am hoping you have already did the research on them.

[The15thMember]

When you are putting acids in your hive, keep in mind that the acid will eat holes in any metal in the hive. If your hives are all wood, then no problem. I have screen top and bottom boards. I tested Miteaway II in one hive years ago and luckily I did because it put 2 inch holes in both the top and bottom boards.
Jim

Crap!  Thank you so much for saying that, Jim.  I saw that warning about it damaging metal and for some dumb reason that didn't click with me.  I've got screened bottom boards.  Short of going out and buying a solid bottom board, which I can and will do, is there anything else I could do? 

To be honest, I don`t know if MAQS will do the job.
If You really push the limit of amount of MAQS used (I`d use more) and temps and humidity is allright, You might succeed in getting a lot of mites and the sick bees. For the latter, formic acid is very good.
Don`t know if it will save the hive. All depends on the amount of healthy bees still left.

Entrance: The important thing seems to be, does air go in and out? Your bottoms solid?

If I had decided on formic acid, I`d have used a sponge cloth and really put something on that. And repeated at least every 5 days. But this may cost the life of sound bees, including the queen.

Did You do a mite-wash so we know what we are talking about?

Hey, blackforest.  Thanks for responding, I was hoping some of the people from my original thread would jump over here.  I haven't done a sugar roll since the other hive absconded, but I did do a sugar roll of this hive one or two weeks ago, and it came back as 2% infestation.  This hive all year has not been as bad as the one that absconded, as this hive went queenless earlier in the year, so they had a brood break.

To answer your question, yes, the screen can stay on. The ventilation will be enough. As far as the cautions on maqs, I am hoping you have already did the research on them.

Thanks for the answer, iddee.  I have done my research, although not to the level of super-overkill that I normally like since I am in a bit of a time crunch on this one.  As you can see from Jim's comment, mentioning things a second time won't hurt, so if you have anything you'd like to add feel free.   

[blackforest beekeeper]

When you are putting acids in your hive, keep in mind that the acid will eat holes in any metal in the hive. If your hives are all wood, then no problem. I have screen top and bottom boards. I tested Miteaway II in one hive years ago and luckily I did because it put 2 inch holes in both the top and bottom boards.
Jim

stainless steel does take it.

[blackforest beekeeper]

When you are putting acids in your hive, keep in mind that the acid will eat holes in any metal in the hive. If your hives are all wood, then no problem. I have screen top and bottom boards. I tested Miteaway II in one hive years ago and luckily I did because it put 2 inch holes in both the top and bottom boards.
Jim

stainless steel does take it. we do all our screens stainless and I don`t think anything else can be bought.

[The15thMember]

stainless steel does take it. we do all our screens stainless and I don`t think anything else can be bought.

You?re right, their website says that it doesn?t react with most stainless. Was your equipment not stainless steel, Jim? 

[TheHoneyPump]

You have the MAQS in hand.  I would not be concerned about a bit of metal for the sake of the bees.

There needs to be some free passive ventilation but not a lot as the MAQS works as a fumagin, as a vapor, and that needs to get everywhere in the hive to reach the mites.  Too many openings and it just will not do its job. 

I suggest closing off screened bottoms, close off top entrances and inner cover center holes, close off the main entrance on the front of the bottom board to 1/3 - 1/4 hive width.  No concern over the rob screen, that is not considered a reducer.   Put the MAQS in, get the knock down started.  If the bees need more air, they will fan themselves. 

[The15thMember]

You have the MAQS in hand.  I would not be concerned about a bit of metal for the sake of the bees.

There needs to be some free passive ventilation but not a lot as the MAQS works as a fumagin, as a vapor, and that needs to get everywhere in the hive to reach the mites.  Too many openings and it just will not do its job. 

I suggest closing off screened bottoms, close off top entrances and inner cover center holes, close off the main entrance on the front of the bottom board to 1/3 - 1/4 hive width.  No concern over the rob screen, that is not considered a reducer.   Put the MAQS in, get the knock down started.  If the bees need more air, they will fan themselves. 

Thanks for the advice, THP.  I'll get right on it this afternoon. 

[TheHoneyPump]

Well, have you seen some rather spectacular mite drops onto the bottom board?

[blackforest beekeeper]

Well, have you seen some rather spectacular mite drops onto the bottom board?

or bees out front?