What to Offer for Bait Frames

[FatherMichael]

I'll have four swarm traps ready for known locations of bees that might swarm this spring.

Dr. Seely says that having some drawn comb in the trap is very successful.

I belong to the Lubbock Area Beekeepers, which meets once a month.  We trade, barter, and buy from each other.

I'd like 4 bait frames and wonder what to offer for them.  I have frames with Rite-Cell foundation to trade (maybe two for one?) or can pay cash.

[iddee]

I would give them away, I would never pay more than 2 dollars each for older black comb, which is what you want for swarm traps.

[jalentour]

$7 or less in my area.

[BeeMaster2]

I just trade a new frame for an old drawn frame. I have done this several times.
Jim Altmiller

[jalentour]

You really don't need an entire frame for each trap.  You only need the aroma.  Just trade for one and cut it up.  Save the pieces in the freezer for next year.

[FatherMichael]

Thanks, guys!

Was worried this might be another hit to the pocketbook.

The cost of getting back in is mounting.  Need to start finding ways to recoup expenses.

Re-usable swarm traps will save money if I can catch some free bees.  $250 a nuc is gagging me!  LOL

[BeeMaster2]

Father,
Use your hives for swarm traps.
Just put them about 6? off the ground. A deep with a small opening and a 7 or 9 empty frames, some lemon grass oil around the entrance makes a very good swarm trap.
Jim Altmiller

[BeeMaster2]

Here is a stack of medium boxes that was next to my barn. I added 9 empty with waxed wood strips and one old drawn frame, a screen top that has a small opening and some lemon grass oil. The next day this swarmed in. 10 days later I opened it. The top 10 frames were full of brood and nectar in perfectly drawn frames. I had to do a cutout to put the bottom frames in the hive.

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Jim Altmiller

[Ben Framed]

Jim they do not waste any time setting up their new home do they? This is a good example why some suggest filling our traps with foundation frames along with (old catch comb) when setting up a real catch box somewhere out in the country and as a person may not be able to check their traps for a week or two in between inspections. Thank you for posting.
Phillip 

Amendment. Jim I apologize I was not very clear here. What my meaning was "with new foundation frames" along with one old catch comb. I am thinking I had already posted this in another topic while talking to knoc but I was not clear here, sorry.

[BeeMaster2]

Phillip,
When scout bees are checking out your swarm trap, they measure out the space. If the box is full of foundation it blocks their measurements and looks too small. If you know a swarm is looking for a site, you can use drawn foundation. They will move in providing the box is large enough for the size of the swarm.
I only use all drawn drawn comb when I put a swarm in a box. If the swarm is really large I give them 2 boxes of drawn frames. They will fill the frames with nectar/honey.
I don?t put good drawn frames in traps because the wax moths often beat the bees to the box and destroy it.
Jim Altmiller

[Ben Framed]

Phillip,
When scout bees are checking out your swarm trap, they measure out the space. If the box is full of foundation it blocks their measurements and looks too small. If you know a swarm is looking for a site, you can use drawn foundation. They will move in providing the box is large enough for the size of the swarm.
I only use all drawn drawn comb when I put a swarm in a box. If the swarm is really large I give them 2 boxes of drawn frames. They will fill the frames with nectar/honey.
I don?t put good drawn frames in traps because the wax moths often beat the bees to the box and destroy it.
Jim Altmiller

That's another part of the beauty of keepings bees, there is more than one way to skin a cat. And the beauty of this forum just as this, you and I along with others sharing these different ways and ideas of skinning those cats. lol...  I pretty much go along with most of that Jim. A large enough catch box should be used in order to make sure the bees like what they find. The reason I suggest one frame of old comb is for the benefit of the obvious attraction, the reason I suggest the other 9 frames being of new foundation is because of the concern of wax moths as you well pointed out. I have been told wax moths do not bother new foundation. If this is true, when the bees move in we will not have to be concerned with wild comb. We can rest assured that our well thought out placement of foundation in our other nine frames will be well drawn out by our new friends. Eliminating what we see here. I hope this helps. I plan on putting out both 10 frame catch boxes an 5 frame catch boxes. I have been told both are effective. I would think the 10 framer would up the odd of a catch by 100 percent over the 5 framer?

Phillip

[MikeyN.C.]

X2 Jim,   I only use 1 old dark drawn frame in 5 fr. nuc box. And 1 half frame and frame with starter strip.
But the #1 thing to understand is check box every 2 days , in swarm situations . in a box like Jim said bee's like room. So if u set up boxes , set up with half the frames and space them out. But I have to check every 2 day's. If not u will catch a swarm and have a mess. Get to them quickly and can be put into another box.

[FatherMichael]

Here is a stack of medium boxes that was next to my barn. I added 9 empty with waxed wood strips and one old drawn frame, a screen top that has a small opening and some lemon grass oil. The next day this swarmed in. 10 days later I opened it. The top 10 frames were full of brood and nectar in perfectly drawn frames. I had to do a cutout to put the bottom frames in the hive.

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Jim Altmiller

WOW!

[Oldbeavo]

One old black brood frame, the balance wax coated plastic foundation. No issues with wax moth other than the brood frame.
The local advice is to spray the outside of the box with LGO or swarm attracter to get the scouts to the box, they will go inside and check it out once they find the box.

[Bob Wilson]

I know it it nice having the jump start with empty come, but I don't have any. I am assuming it will be attractive enough if I use empty, foundationless frames that the bees couldn't quite get to from last year. These unused frames still have propolis all down their edges, so bee smell is all over them, but moths will ignore them I supose

[FatherMichael]

Didn't get any practical responses from the club yet.

I've got a strong hive in the back yard so am now thinking of what it might contribute to the cause.

It is an 8 frame job with one deep and one medium that was completely full of bees and stores going into the winter.

I may have what I need, eh?

[iddee]

I would use one or two mediums in a deep box,with the remainder being deep foundation. The medium [s[ would give them cluster space and they will add straight comb to the bottom to the depth of a deep.

[FatherMichael]

I would use one or two mediums in a deep box,with the remainder being deep foundation. The medium [s[ would give them cluster space and they will add straight comb to the bottom to the depth of a deep.

That would fit with what Jim said above.

I'll have to see what the donor hive has to offer in a couple of months.

Thanks!

[van from Arkansas]

Are wasp a problem with occupying swarm traps?

[FatherMichael]

Are wasp a problem with occupying swarm traps?

The hive I have now was set out for two years as a swarm trap with no takers, not even wasps, before I put a nuc in it.

It was full of frames with foundation; so, no room for wasps, eh?

Plus, it was during the last of 5 years of drought.

We had a great spring last year and may be having another.

Looking forward to this season.