SWARM Prevention & Increased Honey production

[KONASDAD]

Recent posts regarding unlimited brood chambers and MB's web site asking people to use an unlimited brood chamber or checkerboarding as an experiment have induced me to try one or the other method. I am also reading "Fifty Years Among the Bees," and Miller beleives swarm prevention is paramount to honey production.

As such, It is advised to begin this process 9 weeks before the begining of spring flow. That date for where I am is sometime in late Jan or early February as Maples begin to bloom late March at the earliest.

MB also suggests using drawn frames to put between filled frames. Since I am new to beekeeping, I dont have extra drawn frames, only blank foundation. Is this a problem?
How and when do I begin to feed for spring build-up and not induce swarming by feeding too much or too early?
Do I do an extensive inspection in early February when it will be cold and possibly snowy? If so, Is it any diff than a summer inspection? What is it I am looking for in this early season inspectuion
I live in a very heavy suburban environment and swarming would be a potential problem. I want to manage my bees, not just admire them, and  maximize the hive's potential.

[Kirk-o]

Hay good luck I have used the unlimited brood nest starting last year gteat resuls no swarming highest honey ever from a hive for me
kirko

[Brian D. Bray]

>MB also suggests using drawn frames to put between filled frames. Since I am new to beekeeping, I dont have extra drawn frames, only blank foundation. Is this a problem?

Not really, bees busy drawing comb will not swarm, it's when they run out of comb building space and begin filling the comb in with honey that they switch to swarm mode.  As long as you have foundation for the bees to build out you're OK IMO.

>How and when do I begin to feed for spring build-up and not induce swarming by feeding too much or too early?

I put the 1st super on about March 1.  Crowded bees means a tendency to swarm, see above comment.


>Do I do an extensive inspection in early February when it will be cold and possibly snowy? If so, Is it any diff than a summer inspection? What is it I am looking for in this early season inspectuion

You're inspecting for remaining stores, pollen and nectar foraging, brood development (does the queen appear to be enlarging the brood nest), and health of the bees. Everything from nosema to AFB should be considered and kept in mind.

I live in a very heavy suburban environment and swarming would be a potential problem. I want to manage my bees, not just admire them, and  maximize the hive's potential.

Managed bees means reducing swarming and increasing hive size so that you can get the most out of each hive.  More space = More bees = more honey. 

[Cindi]

Konasdad
>Do I do an extensive inspection in early February when it will be cold and possibly snowy? If so, Is it any diff than a summer inspection? What is it I am looking for in this early season inspectuion

I don't think that this question was answered fully.  IMO, I would NOT do an EXTENSIVE inspection in early February.  Brian did say to check for stores in an early inspection, that would be right in my eyes.  That would be the inspection that I would do. 

Early inspections would be shorter than a summer inspection because of the cold temperature.

I would wait until the weather warms up a little bit before opening the hive for more than a few minutes to do a deep inspection.  That is only my opinion, I pretty new to beekeeping, but that is mine and I'm stickin' to it.  Great day.  Cindi

[Finsky]

.
Inspections of spring to early summer

* Food stores enough- At least equal 2 capped frames food.
* not too much food which steal warm rom from brood
* Queen is laying normally

When new bees start to emerge
* enough room room for expansion--- >  effect on swarming
* again enough room for expansion
* diseases

Swarming time : every week check when hive is big, 3-4 box.
* enough room for brood, honey and expansion

During honey flow
* enough room for new nectar

[Finsky]

Here is good to read. Yesterday inertenet was so jammed that I cannot load this

http://www.gobeekeeping.com/o9826.htm

http://maarec.cas.psu.edu/PDFs/Swarm_Prev_Control_PM.pdf

Canola is dangerous plant to small hives and beginners. It may fill so fast the hive that swarm escapes and leave only eggs into cell cups. It gives no warning.

Big hives will be filled during one week. If you do not inspect every week, colony may be away when you open next time the hive.

http://www.agric.nsw.gov.au/reader/535

Bad weathers accelerate big hives swarming when bees have nothing to do.

[Scadsobees]

Keep in mind...
the spring flow that is referenced isn't when *any* nectar starts flowing.  It generally means when the main spring honey increase flow starts which is sometime in May in my area.  9 weeks back is generally sometime late Feb or March depending on your area.  There are numerous minor flows earlier, including maple and dandelion.

Most of the manipulations done then are only if you aren't messing with the brood nest.  Checkerboarding is above the nest, switching hive bodies only if you don't split the cluster, or adding a hive body if needed.  There isn't a reason to do a full check until a bit later when it is warm enough, all you care about earlier as mentioned above are the honey stores and that the cluster is expanding.

-rick

[Finsky]

There isn't a reason to do a full check until a bit later when it is warm enough, all you care about earlier as mentioned above are the honey stores and that the cluster is expanding.

So it is. Hives are so small in spring that "full inspection" in one box is overstated. Brood area is perhaps 7-12 frames and they are quickly looked. It is differnt rent when you have 3 brood boxes and 2-4 more boxes full of boiling bees.

Noways I have been too lazy. I cut the wing from queens but I have made it too late. It should be done before colony expances.

[KONASDAD]

Thanx, but needs some follow-up. When doing the inspection, I find the cluster in the upper box. Do Then add the checkerboard frames beneath the top brood chamber, or do I reverse the boxes top to bottom in addition to expanding the available frames?
Assuming there are sufficient stores, do I feed pollen patties to incourage brood expansion anyways?
Lastly, since I have two hives, is it appropriate to move frames around to help w/ congestion b/n weaker/stronger hives?

[Finsky]

Thanx, but needs some follow-up. When doing the inspection, I find the cluster in the upper box.

It is always in spring in upper box. Then you should wait that new bees emerge and you must add combs. When new bees emerge, wintered bees will die soon. It takes time before colony begins to expand. It takes over month however from brooding start.

In spring the first add I do under the brood area. If you put it upp, bees must heat 100% more space. If you put new champper lowest, bees take into use when they need it and heat is upstair.

When you ad´d the first super for honey, then change the places of brood boxes. Look further the maarec advice.

Assuming there are sufficient stores, do I feed pollen patties to incourage brood expansion anyways?

Sugar stores and pollen stores are totally different matter. Pollen patty accelerates however brood rearing.

Lastly, since I have two hives, is it appropriate to move frames around to help w/ congestion b/n weaker/stronger hives?

When one box is full of bees the colony need not more brood frames. When you move brood frames tehre is always prolem that you move diseases.

[Michael Bush]

Checkerboarding involves drawn combs alternating with combs full of honey OVER the brood nest.  This is Walt Wright's method and from what people say it is not only very effective at preventing swarming but also at getting huge yields.  I have not really had time to experiment with it much.

My method is to wait until somewhat later (like after the apples are blooming or so depending on the cluster size and the weather) and open up the brood nest with some empty frames.

"The Experiment" was to try each of those (Checkerboarding and Broodnest managment) seperately and together to compare the results.  Walt's question is whether putting empty frames in will induce establishment mode in 3rd year or more colonies which he says second year colonies are  normally in.  This "establishment mode" causes them to be hauling in nectar during the two week lull before the flow he sees in established colonies.  So the question was, can you fool the bees into believing they are in establishment mode and take advantage of an extra two weeks of flow.